Toronto: Where It’s At, Part III

Shop…

Naturally, one of my favorite parts of the trip. The interesting thing about Toronto (and Canada in general thus far) is that they are very much into their boutique industry. While you have your major retailers, small business is thriving. What makes this possible is Toronto’s perfection of what most people think is an American thing: The Mall. You get a group of stores together in one place – people flock to it in Toronto. So whether it is a neighborhood, district, or standard mall, you’re sure to find something to tickle your shopping fancy.

The PATH – To me, the PATH is ingenious! Submerged under the buildings of downtown Toronto, the PATH is like a rabbit’s warren of shopping and eating! The 27-kilometers of shops and restaurants were the city’s answer to sprawling development that leveled older shops and districts during the 1960’s. According to Fodor’s, as each major building went up (i.e. the RBC building, CBC broadcast center, etc.) each development agreed to create underground space and connect the tunnels to retail, as well as public transportation (Remember the subway we never took?). With 1,200 shops, the PATH provides a place for people to wander about shielded from the traffic and the elements. While Lenny and I only spent enough time underground to get some water and stop at a local drugstore – it definitely piqued my interest and landed on my “next time” list. But don’t run out of time like we did! PATH stores are open as long as the building above it is open. That means 6:00pm is much too late to purchase that cute scarf you saw. With several entrances above ground and access to attractions such as the Hockey Hall of Fame – the PATH is worth the excursion!

Kensington Market – Kensington Market is definitely what you would call the center of a more “bohemian” nature. While not exactly a market – its more like a series of streets – there’s definitely a lot to see, taste, and smell while there. Roughly between Augusta and Spadina Avenue, this eclectic collection of shops might scare the square, so to speak. At least to me, Kensington Market is the modern day version of San Francisco’s Haight-Ashbury area. There is an air of counter-culture and the only thing conservative there would be the prices. It was a nice walk through the neighborhood and I’m glad I stepped into a few of the shops spaces.

Global Cheese – Okay, I’m a cheese-a-holic. I admit it. And up until I walked into the very pungent Global Cheese, I’d never been to an actual cheese monger’s shop. But let me tell you, it was an education. For Lenny though…not me. As we strolled for the narrow aisles, I listed vocally the different cheeses I had tried. And when we got to the glass case up front, I pointed out, “Wow…authentic chevre (goat cheese)!” Lenny looked into the case and said, “It’s moldy.” At which point I said that’s what made it authentic and added, “The spores make it tastier!” A few seconds later, we were back out on the street, my beloved husband wondering why I would eat something with mold on it. While I didn’t get to sample any of the 150 varieties of cheese there (ask though and you shall receive a taste) – I can tell you it’s a great place to pick up a hunk of something and a pack of crackers for a tasty snack later on. (76 Kensington Avenue Phone: 416-593-9251)

Chocolate Addict – Who wouldn’t want to walk into a store that had a huge sign proclaiming CHOCOLATE ADDICT!?! Naturally, Lenny and I rushed in. And yes, we did find all kinds of chocolate including some exotic flavors such as “spiced chocolate” (chocolate with cayenne or Cajun pepper mixed in), lavender truffles, and some of my favorite Asian candies. However, I was quickly reminded that one man’s treat is another man’s poison. Sitting next to the sweets were some delicacies such as sour cream and onion flavored crickets and chocolate covered insects. Don’t believe me? Thought so! I took the liberty of photographing them. But don’t let the odd treats divert you from finding some good candies you probably won’t find at home. (185 Baldwin St. Phone: 416-979-5809)

The GlobaAware Counterspace – In a row of houses that have mostly been converted into small businesses sits this little place that is solely dedicated to the angry, young idealist in you. In the U.S. it would probably be referred to by some serious types as a “Liberal Boutique.” The Kensington location doubles not only as a shop, but also an activist center. And there’s no doubt that Counterspace aims for the radical jugular judging by the number on anti-Bush, pro-environment, and anti-diamond buttons sitting on two tables out front. My shopping knows no politics, so I approached most of the articles for sale with a sense of humor. And you know what? There are some cool things there in terms of accessories and thought provocation! Make laughs, not war and give this place a shot! (19 Kensington Avenue Phone: 416-204-1984)

Queen Street Fashion District – Much like Kensington Market, the Queen Street Fashion District isn’t so much a shopping mall, but a collection of smaller, artisan powered stores. Goods are often handmade and high quality. That does mean sometimes you’re going to find higher prices. But the fashion district plays to the heartstrings of cutting edge fashionistas, the ears of music lovers, and minds of boutique culturists. Bring a pair of good walking shoes if you plan on walking the distance from University Avenue to Bathurst Street. It is definitely a long walk, but worth it for some great finds!

Magic Pony – This concept store drew me in because above the name of the shop printed on the front window, it said “Concept Shop and Gallery.” A WHAT?! So I walked inside. What you’ll find is a place that mixes the Japanese anime cool mixed with a whimsical “kid” theme, and a dash of geek cred. But the big draw here is the cool toys and gadgets that seem to be aimed more at the adults than kids. With it’s Star Wars themed jump drives ($110 CAD for 1GB!), plush toys that look like something out of a Tim Burton cartoon dream, and piggy banks that look like bunnies smoking cigarettes – I would venture to say that The Magic Pony is one high scale tchokies shop that is full of surprises! (694 Queen Street West Phone: 416-861-1684)

Ten Thousand Villages – If you are like me, you tend to bring home souvenir gifts for friends and family. And while I want to get them “something form Toronto,” I don’t want it to say Toronto in big orange letters. When I walked into Ten Thousand Villages I knew I was about to take care of some major business! Working with artisan groups in over 30 countries, the people that run this store are dedicated to the ideal of “fair trade” in order to deliver unique and quality goods. The drive behind the store inventory is to reach out to third world and impoverish countries to hire artisans that would otherwise be unemployed. The artisans create products that reflect their culture and craft. Ten Thousand Villages pays them upfront for their products and brings them into the store. The results are simply amazing: Baskets and serving platters made from magazines; purses and lunchboxes made from flattened aluminum cans; hand carved celadon boxes! I picked up handcrafted olive wood pins (from the West Bank) for my Mom, Grandmother, and middle sister. My kid sister made out with three hand woven and colorful Kaisa grass rings (from Bangladesh). So, if you’re looking to make a splash giftwise, while making a difference, shop at Ten Thousand Villages. (709 Queen Street West Phone: 416-703-2263)

Girl Friday – How could I not stop here?! When I found an entry for this boutique in Fodor’s, I knew I was making a visit! The Queen Street location is one of two stores that houses local designer, Rebecca Nixon’s frocks. For those of you in the size 0-8 range, you will simply die when you see the racks of stylish clothes that line the walls. The dresses are pretty, feminine, and reasonably priced. Separates from other lines are available as well. All in all, the modern career girl looking for something different or eye catching will find Girl Friday’s selection to be the antidote to the boring career styles found in regular retail stores. Sadly for us plus-sized gals, we are regulated to the “Great Equalizers:” Accessories and shoes housed in an armoire near the back of the store. The good news is, Nixon brings together fresh jewelry, cute shoes, and a couple well made bags that you will definitely want to snatch up. I walked out of the store with the cutest butterfly necklace ($15 CAD) that I couldn’t live without! (740 Queen Street West Phone: 416-364-2511)

South St. Lawrence Market – I have a special affection for East Coast style markets. If you’ve ever been to Boston’s Quincy Market, you’ll know what I’m taking about! There’s just something about the stalls and stalls of different types of food and merchandise that makes it different and special. A friend of mine recommended South St. Lawrence Market because they knew I’d enjoy it. The St. Lawrence Market area covers the area between Yonge Street and Jarvis Street (considered “Old Town” Toronto), but the South Market is one of the biggest attractions. The brick structure is two stories feast for the eyes and the taste buds thanks to the multicultural atmosphere. Lenny and I were able to complete our souvenir shopping with a few well purchased gifts. It’s an ideal place to pick up a ready made lunch or shop around and create your own impromptu picnic lunch to take out to the many green spaces around the block.

The Mustard Emporium – Kozlik’s Canadian Mustard operates as The Mustard Emporium and is a short distance into the brick structure coolness of St. Lawrence Market. Loving mustard as much as I love cheese, we stopped by to sample the wares. Kozlik’s has been making their multitude of mustard flavors since 1948. The signature brown lidded bottles are sold at a variety of locations, but the stand at St. Lawrence is a stand alone fortress of flavor. Step right up and sample recipies the nasal clearing Bordeaux, Hot Russian, and Horseradish flavors! Or perhaps you like it a little sweet? Then grab a bottle of Amazing Maple or Orange and Honey. Feeling a little daring? Try Iced and Wine or the Clobbered Cranberry! At $5.99 CAD per jar or 4 jars for $20 CAD, these bottles of rocket fuel made their way back to Arizona for a few of our gourmet/mustard loving friends. (South Market, Upper Level, Stall 19a Phone: 416-361-9788)

The Souvenir Market – Okay, so NOW we needed something that read “Toronto” in big orange letters. Alright, really it was a magnet that Lenny could trade with my Mom the next time we all got together. But just the same, we found this stall to be very helpful with some different pieces of Toronto tourism we hadn’t seen during our trip. Come here for what we call “last stop” items and you’ll find a decent deal. If magnets aren’t your thing, feel free to pick up an apron or box of maple candies and avoid the high prices you would normally find elsewhere. (South Market, Upper Level, Stall 23 Phone: 416-203-0033)

Toronto: Where It’s At, Part II

Amuse…

Niagara Falls – Whenever nature is one of the biggest attractions in town, it’s pretty impressive. But the word “impressive” fails to describe what can be considered one of the greatest natural wonders of the world. Located a quick 1 hour and 30 or so minutes from Toronto traveling the Queen Elizabeth Way, the Niagara Peninsula is an entire day of exploration and awe. Bridal Veil Falls and The Horseshoe Falls collectively make up Niagara, with the Canadian Horseshoe Falls being the biggest attraction. Stunned is a good word to describe how you feel standing in the presence of 600,000 gallons of water per second falling 178 feet. While viewing both falls is an event in it of itself – the 19-miles of Niagara Parks is not something you can do in a couple hours. You’ve got to justify the $18 CAD you spent on parking. So make it a day. Make the best of it by buying an all day pass on Niagara Falls’ People Mover bus ($7.50 CAD per adult, $4.50 CAD per child 6-12 years old, under age 5 rides free). The transportation will take you to the many “adventure tours” you can take of the Falls and its surrounding attractions (i.e. the Butterfly Conservatory). In the Falls’ immediate area, they are well stocked with eateries, bathrooms, and souvenir shops. Best of all…there’s endless space for you to capture on film or digital photography the natural souvenir that is the falls. Tip: Due to the amount of water flying through the air, it does get a bit damp out there. Don’t get caught having to buy the cheesy yellow poncho – bring a hat, umbrella, raincoat, or hoodie with you to cover up!

Maid of the Mist – Some would say that going on the Maid of the Mist is one of the cheesiest things you can do. But you know what? It’s probably the best – and most cost effective way – to get close to the falls and appreciate the American and Canadian side in all their glory. For a mere $14 CAD per adult ($8.60 CAD per child 6-12 years old, under age 5 rides free), you get to experience Niagara Falls first hand, from the foot of the Falls. Operating ferry boats since 1846, Maid of the Mist has helped thousands of tourists “Explore the Roar” every year, April through October. Bring your cameras and done the traditional blue poncho and hit the docks. The Maid crew has been operating so long; you will be amazed at how efficient they run their whole operation. With boats leaving every 15-20 minutes, even at its busiest, the Maid of the Mist experience is about an hour or so from start to finish. Trust me – once you do this – you’ll never forget Niagara Falls as long as you live!

Clifton Hill – Located up the hill from the Niagara Falls Park, it SCREAMS “tourist trap.” My first impression: OMG! TOONTOWN IS LOOSE! Every inch of this hill is covered in retail, restaurants, arcades, and tired parents trying to keep up with their boundless children. So, if it’s this way…why go there? Clifton Hill museum alley! If you have a twisted side to you (as Lenny does), you’ll find these fascinating. Also, Clifton Hill souvenir shops provide you with a (little) price break for those souvenirs that say NIAGARA FALLS…in big pink or orange letters! Seriously though, if you can wade through what’s worth it (The RCMP Store! The Hershey Store!) and what’s not (The Casino!); you can have a good time on Clifton Hill.

Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum – The last time I went to a Ripley’s Believe It or Not Museum, was in San Francisco. Lenny and I were not yet married and he was all jazzed about it since he was a big fan of the show. He had told me that his original Ripley’s experience was at the Niagara Falls location. While I put up a good front of “Ewww…I can’t believe I have to go through this AGAIN…” I have to admit that the museum was well worth the price of admission ($13.99 CAD). A mish-mosh of artifacts, taxidermy, and wax figures create a big part of the exhibits. But the interactive quality of many of the displays keeps it from being repetitive. It can also be home to MANY photographic moments. If you have a good sense of humor and like the idea of the biggest traveling side show you’ve every seen – I say take a break from the mid-afternoon heat and humidity to wander Ripley’s.

Chinatown – Did you know there are SIX major Chinatowns in the Toronto area? It’s a good thing Lenny and I research before we go on trips. The Chinatown everyone wants to go to is what they call “main” Chinatown, located along Dundas Street between Nathan Phillips Square and Spadina Avenue. As you might expect, Chinatown is home to many Mom and Pop storefronts. Lenny and I walked through on the way to the campus of the University of Toronto right as shops were beginning to open. It’s a fascinating sight to watch the street start to come alive with produce vendors, herbalists, restaurateurs, and regular neighborhood people. Considered one of the largest Asian populations in North America, Chinatown is an unbelievable mix of Far East Asians and Pacific Islanders. Keep and eye out while walking – if it’s been a long time since you’ve had specific Asian treats, clothing items, etc.; chances are you’ll find it in Chinatown.

CN Tower – The Canadian National Tower was completed in 1976 as an ode to Canadian industry and served as a communication platform for TV and radio. Somewhere along the way, someone thought it would be a great idea to sell tickets for people to go up in excess of 1400 feet in the air. And the acrophobic and thrill seeking alike have been clinging to the walls of the elevator up ever since. The CN Tower offers many packages (or “experiences”) in which to test your mettle. However, they seem pretty pricey at someplace where people go to “observe.” If you do go, your best bet would be the $21.49 CAD Observation Experience. The package includes access to the ground floor attractions (a great history lesson if you like to read stuff), the glass floor observation deck, and the external Look Out. Go early, before the field trips and tour buses arrive and take a moment to participate in a CN Tower tradition by lying down on the glass floor to have your picture taken. It’s a lot harder than it sounds – but a thrill once you get back up on your feet.

Rogers Centre – Take me out to the ballgame! The Toronto Blue Jays call the Rogers Centre (formerly the Skydome) home during the summer and the CFL’s Argonauts take over the rest of the year. Known as the first ever retractable roof, Rogers Centre is a great place to spend an evening during your vacation. Asides from the field, it boasts a hotel and several eateries (aside from your regular ballpark fair). Lenny was able to pick up his requisite baseball pennant from the Team Shop and even had time to take a picture with the statue of the team mascot. If you are a baseball fan – try getting your seats around left field towards the third base side. During our game, we seemed to have some rowdy regulars! It certainly made the game more fun. Don’t want to pay the online ticket vendor their outrageous surcharges? Simply walk up to Gate 14’s automated ticket kiosk and swipe your credit card, press a few buttons and jog into the stadium in time for the anthems.

Hockey Hall of Fame – On the corner of Yonge and Front sits a building that at first inspection looks like a church. In a way, it would be right. On the grounds of what is known as Exhibition Place is the temple to all things hockey. This had to be the best bargain out of all our sightseeing adventures, as well as one of my favorite things on this trip! Even for the casual hockey fan, one cannot deny the long and colorful history of the sport. The museum’s exhibits pay homage to the history and are visually exciting. It’s fun for everyone in the group. If you have a “reader” who wants to read every placard available (like Lenny), there’s tons of information for them to absorb. If you have a “rester” who likes the sights, but is a little tired from all the excitement, there are several seating areas where they can catch their breath! Total damage: $13 CAD per adult, 4-hours, and a dead camera battery halfway through the exhibit. Can’t wait to go back!

Toronto: Where It’s At!

Stay…

The Residence Inn Toronto Downtown/Entertainment District – I know I pimped this hotel in my Nuts and Bolts piece, but I think it’s worth talking about again. The biggest advantages this hotel has for just about any traveler is the fact that it’s 1) All suites and 2) Sitting in a prime location! The room itself was a great place to crash after a day of walking around. With a mini kitchen, flat screen TV, and spacious bathroom…we felt like we were coming home instead of returning to a hotel room. The hotel is a few minutes walk (LITERALLY) to the CN Tower and Rogers Centre and entrance to the Queen Elizabeth Expressway just around the block. While surrounded by lots of activity, we felt the neighborhood was safe and it was easy to navigate around because major landmarks were so close by. The full buffet breakfast included in the price of the room had something to satisfy everyone. Just make sure you go early enough or you’ll be waiting for a seat! The staff was friendly and helpful – they all greet you if they get on an elevator with you! My only gripe was with the cost of parking ($30 CAD), but we got around that by parking in a nearby lot. Overall, The Residence Inn makes a great home base while you’re in Toronto providing you with top notch service and amenities that will keep you coming back for more! (255 Wellington Street West. Toll free Reservations 1-888-236-2427)

Eat...

As we discussed in an earlier post, prices in Canada are subject to two additional taxes: GST and Provincial Sales Tax. Because of these taxes, I learned from a few friends and via a Canadian news piece, that the service industry pretty much gets the shaft when it comes to tips. So, please make sure to tip according to the meal itself to be safe. Cut your server some slack! And speaking of those waiters and waitresses – do not be freaked out if they don’t check up on you every waking moment of your meal. Unlike us Americans, meals are not conducted at breakneck speed. They do want you to enjoy it!

There's something for everyone at Gretzky's

Wayne Gretzky’s – Forget Canadians, as far as the world is concerned, Wayne Gretzky is the beginning and end of hockey. And since we’re dealing with a hockey fan girl and boy on this trip, there was reason to believe that a trip to The Great One’s Toronto restaurant was plausible. Think of it as an addendum to the Hockey Hall of Fame. As far as theme restaurants go – Gretzky’s has it down pat. Memorabilia goes all the way back to when he was The Wee One. Milestone pucks, sticks, pictures, and jerseys line the first floor eatery. For a kick, go check out the doors of the bathrooms! On the second floor is the Oasis, an outdoor rooftop bar that does cater a bit upscale, but is frequented by many a Blue Jay fan before and after games. But where it shines in the theme…it only putters out a “meh” with the restaurant. It was sad for me to admit that the food was pretty mediocre. This is not to say that the food was bad, but for $10-$15 CAD average per entrée, I was expecting more bang for my Loonie! Grandma Gretzky’s meatloaf had an oddly “industrial” look to it, rather than the homemade feel it was supposed to evoke. Lenny’s serving of pad Thai seemed so insignificant in the GINORMUS dish it was served in. For the hockey fan, eating at this hockey temple once in your lifetime is a must. But as a casual diner, once may be more than enough. (99 Blue Jays Way, Phone 416-979-7828)

The Pickle Barrel Grand – Trying to be more spontaneous, Lenny pulled off the freeway back from Niagara into one of Canada’s greatest achievements: The Mall. The Sherway Mall to be exact! And anchoring the west entrance was The Pickle Barrel. This local chain seemed to match itself up quality-wise with America’s Cheesecake Factory, minus the endless menu of jumbled cuisine. Contemporary décor with the emphasis on privacy, we were quite happy with our menu selections. Starting with a duo of calamari, Lenny and I thrilled at being served not only traditional rings, but meaty grilled bits as well! The smoky taste of the soft squid was a new experience for us. I ventured into Canadian food with a Montreal Smoked Meat sandwich on a Kaiser roll with some tasty slaw and (OF COURSE!) a pickle. Meanwhile Lenny grooved with a grilled mushroom burger with a side of the most interesting citrus couscous that we both wanted the recipe for. The service here was especially friendly – and after a long day of sightseeing – every traveler needs a little TLC. (10 locations in Ontario, check website for specifics)

Epicure Café on Queen Street – This Queen Street district eatery was another pleasant surprise in our spontaneity. Following in the tradition of the European culture, Epicure is a small café with limited seating on the first floor (sharing the space with a bar) and additional indoor and garden seating on the rooftop. And even though it was the first time we’d ever been there, Lenny and I felt like this could be our neighborhood hangout if we lived there. The bistro style atmosphere and the Italian/French influences on the menu were enough to draw us in. And the prices ($7-$17 CAD per entrée) were nothing to sneeze at. Continuing our calamari journey across Toronto, we had fried Cajun calamari rings with Greek tzatziki sauce. Not being a spice fan, I was pretty wary, but the tzatziki really cooled down the bite of the spice blend and combined nicely with the flavor of the calamari. The restaurant is also home of our new favorite pizza, The Hawaiian Vacation. We saw it in the window only on the dinner menu, but our waitress was kind enough to ask the chef if we could have it during lunch. He was kind enough to oblige! And boy were we happy with the thin foccacia-like crust, mozzarella concoction. What really made the pizza was not the standard Canadian bacon and pineapple chunks – but the addition of chunks of seasoned ham. On a nice summer day with a bottle of Stella Artois, one couldn’t make a more perfect lunch. (502 Queen Street West Phone: 416-504-8942)

Future Bakery – You could easily dismiss the Future Bakery as a snack stop in the vastness of St. Lawrence Market. But if you did – you’d certainly miss out some tasty homemade treats. This family run bakery uses the recipes brought over by their Polish and Ukranian relatives to Canada two generations ago. The result is 40 kinds of bread, baked goods, and stellar lunch specials. The day we went, we cashed in on the Pierogi Lunch Special. For $3.50 CAD (!!!), we received 8 homemade potato and cheese pierogis with a side of sour cream. Having been pierogi depraved for many years, Lenny welcomed the tastiness of Christmases gone by, despite the fact it was the end of July. (St. Lawrence Market, South Market, Upper Level Phone: 416-366-7259)

Mmmm...cheap eats...

Forget About It Supper Club – Our last dinner in Toronto was snagged just a block or so from the hotel. We discovered during the prime dinner rush hour, it is not uncommon for restaurants to stand their hostesses on the sidewalk with menus to solicit customers in order to compete with each other. After running the gamut with the first three on the corner, we were lured into Forget About It because Italian food sounded tasty and it was not yet overflowing with patrons. Forget About It showcases a Authentic Italian menu and a “features” menu which changes seasonally. This is where I chose the Rigatoni a la Bolognese, a pasta dish swimming in veal and porcini mushrooms. Lenny went autentico with Porcini Mushroom Fettuccini. For $17 CAD each, we were given generous portions, albeit served a tad scorching (we waited five minutes before digging in after I seared the roof of my mouth). The dining area decor was decidedly masculine, with its leather chairs and brown tones. One could see a few La Cosa Nostra types frequenting the establishment. Be aware if you’re a dining duo – ask for a booth rather than one of the tables on the main floor. The foot traffic (even at an early dinnertime) can be a little bothersome. (325 King Street West Phone: 416-599-9909)


Niche Coffee & Tea Company – We ended up at this great little coffee shop because we had reached the point in the trip where Lenny recognized I was tired and irritated and needed some caffeine induced watering. When we entered the narrow storefront at their new Queen Street location, the word “corporate” never crossed my mind. The space is chic with its glossy, black tables and silver wire chairs. The black and white shelving made it sophisticated and neighborly at the same time. The ladies behind the counter were nothing but helpful, recommending I try the Jumpy Monkey. This frosty coffee, chocolate, and banana treat was just what I needed to put me in a better mood to continue walking our way through the city. My one regret is that I didn’t go out back and spend time under the trellis in the garden or take in a bit of lunch or a pastry. The menu outside of drinks looked very promising! But I’m sure I’ll remedy that the next time I’m in town. (626 Queen Street West Phone: 416-203-0458)

Tim Horton’s – A lot of people naturally mistake this coffee giant as the “Canadian Starbucks.” But they would be wrong. It’s upscale cousin, Timothy’s more mirrors the ubiquitous counterpart. No, Tim Horton’s is more like the Dunkin’ Donuts of Canada. The first store was founded in 1964 as the namesake a famous Toronto Maple Leafs defenseman. We hit the Tim Horton’s that was between the Rogers Centre and our hotel after a Blue Jays game for iced cappuccinos and a 10-count box of Timbits (think: Munchkins). At the late hour – those really hit the spot! For a quick breakfast or late night snack, stop at Tim Hortons for a taste of what Canadians have been enjoying for over four decades. (Various locations, www.timhortons.com)

Next up: Shopping, shopping, and more shopping. Oh yeah…and Lenny gets to do something he likes too.